Sunday, October 26, 2014

Magnifico Milano

Early on October 10, a large group of Neuchâtel students and staff headed off on the first school trip since orientation week, to Krakow and Auschwitz in Poland. I had applied to act as a supervisor but, unfortunately, I was not assigned to this trip. (I went on the next one, which you will read about in my next blog post.)When I learned the news in early September, I was disappointed for about half a day. Then Bob and I booked a hotel room that weekend in Milan, Italy, instead.
A painting depicting Milan. We saw it and many others in the Galleria d'Italia.
As the date approached, we became concerned about the weather forecast; rain was expected every day. In fact, we considered cancelling the trip at the eleventh hour, but we would have had to absorb the cost of one night at our hotel, so we decided to go ahead anyway.

Train travel to Milan from Neuchâtel takes about four hours. Since I was able to get away at about noon, that meant we could be in Italy by late afternoon. Clearly, Milan is a popular destination; the train was packed with people and luggage, but that did not matter - we were on our way to Italy! It had been decades since we had crossed its borders.
A small part of the Milano Centrale train station
As soon as we arrived in Milan, we knew we were in an important place; the train station, the second largest in Europe, is very grand. I was so taken by its beauty that, as soon as I could, I pulled out my camera to take photos. Unfortunately, I dropped it on the marble floor and may have broken it irreparably. I will find out the damage when my husband returns to Toronto where I purchased it last April. That was not a good way to start our weekend escape. Fortunately for you blog fans, Bob still had his camera and I had my iPhone, if needed. The photos will keep coming.

Our hotel was in the Lotto district of Milan, ten subway stops away. We purchased a 48 hour travel pass and were good to move around freely all weekend. For Friday evening though, we decided to stay in the vicinity of the hotel. We tried a Neapolitan place nearby for dinner; fittingly, we both enjoyed seafood and pasta dishes.
A toast to Milan - and my lobster-pasta dish.
Saturday was a very busy day for us. We aimed to see as much as we could of this city, the second largest in Italy, in one day, and with the weatherman forecasting 100% chance of rain, we expected to be wet while touring. As it turned out, it rained very little - a light mist really - and for only about 45 minutes. How fortunate for us!!
At the Arch of Peace
Bridge in Sempione Park.
Our first stop was the Sempione Park. We entered it through the Arch of Peace, a monument meant to honour Napoleon which underwent a name change when he lost control of the region before the work was finished. A path from there leads to Sforza Castle, and into the heart of the city.
A Juliet balcony at the castle
The dome in the Basilica near the Museum of Science and Technology
We took another route instead, choosing to widen our walk to other parts of the city. We saw a couple of churches, a modern looking castle, Roman columns, parts of a University campus, a mausoleum and other beautiful architecture. We learned that Milan had a very impressive history - and we had not even arrived at the centre of the city yet!

Castello Cova

A peaceful quadrangle on the campus of the Catholic University of the Sacred Heart
Eventually we arrived in the heart of the city, and when at last, the famous Duomo came into view, we understood why so many flock to it. It is absolutely stunning, with a white marble exterior and graceful lines. The interior is impressive too!
The magnificent Duomo
Inside the Duomo
Close by, we entered the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele, one of the world's first shopping malls built in 1861. It is  full of designer stores. There were Prada and Channel and others of that ilk to visit, but we just looked in the windows. After all, there was no way we could afford anything those folks were selling!
At la Galleria Vittorio Emmanuele
Near La Scala, the famous Opera house, was the Galleria d'Italia, an art gallery free to the public. We were expecting a small place, but we were completely wrong. This former bank building housed an extensive collection of works. We spent well over an hour enjoying the art there.

After that, it was time to wend our way to the Metro and head home. More designer stores lined the streets, more churches opened their doors to us, but eventually, after some 25 000 steps, my tired legs were relieved to arrive back at our hotel for the evening.

For dinner that night, we tried Sicilian food. Although Milan is in Lombardy, we chose to sample cuisine from other regions of Italy. This served to whet our appetite to return to Italy when we could spend more time there. A weekend is just not enough.
The exterior of Milano Centrale
Interesting face on the wall of the train station.
On Sunday morning, we made our way to the Milano Centrale Station once again. Our stay in Milan had come to an end, much too soon.





Tuesday, October 21, 2014

Belle Besançon

If you look at a map, and locate Neuchâtel, you will see how close it is to the French border. Knowing this, Bob suggested a trip to Besançon, a "town of History and Art", that is only a two and half hour train trip away. When we mentioned our plan to Dan, he offered to drive us there on a Saturday morning. He and Paul were intending to cross the border to do some grocery shopping anyway, so why not combine that with a visit to a beautiful place? How could we say no?
A small portion of the citadel.
We got away early that day, so that we could all visit the main attraction before lunch, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, the citadel above the town. Designed by Vauban, the architect who was also responsible for the fortress of Louisbourg in Canada, this is a beautiful and extensive collection of buildings that sit on a promontory over the Doubs River. In order to attract families, the space now also houses a zoo, an insectarium, and an aquarium, as well as several museum exhibit halls.
Paul, Dan and I on the ramparts

A statue of Vauban, the architect.
We were very lucky to have had beautiful weather that morning. The animals came out to play and we could see for a distance from the heights of the ramparts. In one part of the citadel were several memorials to events that took place in WWII. Since I am teaching Holocaust literature, I was particularly taken by the sculpture in memory of those who died in various concentration camps.

Baboons
Memorial to Holocaust victims at the citadel.
After about an hour and a half at this site, Dan drove Bob and me to our hotel, while he and Paul headed back to Switzerland - no doubt stopping for groceries on the way.

La Tour Carrée (square tower) near our hotel
Bob and I stayed because we wanted to see what else Besançon had to offer. As can be seen in the photos attached, this is a city of great beauty. We walked for hours, snapping photos as we went along. There was time for me to shop as well - a great way to spend a Saturday afternoon.
Synagogue in Besançon
The Musée des Beaux Arts was closed for renovations - hence the quiet square.
Roman columns in Square Castan in Besançon
Inside St Jean Cathedral
On Sunday morning, we headed to the Cathedral to see the Astronomical Clock, an amazing instrument with complex abilities. It keeps track of tides and leap years and time zones and planetary orbits and so many other things. I loved it!
The astronomical clock
Afterwards, as we explored the town on this quiet Sunday morning, we came across participants and supporters of the Jungle Run. It seems that many locals were involved in this event. It was a festive competition with some participants painted green while others were attired in outrageous costumes.
A green Jungle runner negotiating one of the obstacles.
The town motto is Utinam

A view by the River Doubs
We strolled for a couple of hours, passing more historical sites and monuments as we made our way back to the hotel, then to the train station, and finally, home to Neuchâtel.





Thursday, October 9, 2014

Day Trippers

I am living in the middle of Europe, in one of the most beautiful countries of the world. When I decided to take the leap and accept an offer to work at Neuchâtel, I did so with a mind to see as much as I could of Switzerland and the countries that surround it. To that end, Bob and I travel to nearby places when time allows. In September, we journeyed to both Lausanne and Fribourg. Just as we expected, we enjoyed both day trips.
I love these banners hanging above this street in Lausanne.
Our day in Lausanne occurred over a month ago, during orientation week when students and half of the staff were in Grindelwald. It is a mere 40 minutes away by train.
Chateau Saint -Maire near the Cathédrale
Lausanne is dominated by its cathedral, perched at the summit of one of the three hills that make up the city. The largest church in Switzerland, the Cathédrale de Notre-Dame was begun in the 12th Century, and has several outstanding features, including its masterpiece, a 13th century painted portal.  In the Cathédrale area is also a University, and the Chateau Saint-Maire, now used for municipal offices.
The Cathédrale Tower

Part of the painted portal.
From this high point (to which we ascended on foot, by the way), we worked our way down into the old town where we wandered the streets looking at the sites; these included several churches, a medieval tower, a "brocante", and Place de la Pelud, the old town square with its animated clock with mechanical figures. This landmark was the main recollection I had of Lausanne from my visit seven years ago.
The old town square - Place de la Pelud
The soldiers in the clock. They march every hour.

Brocante in Lausanne
The medieval tower in Lausanne.
Our trip to Fribourg took place two weeks later, on a Friday afternoon after I taught my classes. Like Lausanne, Fribourg is less than an hour away by train. Unlike Lausanne, we knew very little about this destination before we arrived. What a charming surprise this place turned out to be! It is a well preserved medieval town, with many fine buildings.
One of the city's many fountains (this one from 1525), in front of the Rathaus (City Hall).
Colourful stained glass window in Fribourg's cathedral
Typical of the Swiss cities we have visited, Fribourg is built on hilly terrain, so we were always either ascending or descending as we did our walking tour. From the train station, the route slopes gently downhill through a pedestrian area full of shops towards the Rathaus (City Hall) in the middle layer of the city. It was here that we began to follow what I will call "the fountain trail". Like Bern, Fribourg is dotted with beautiful fountains, and I was determined to find them all that afternoon. Nearby also was the cathedral and two other noteworthy churches, all of which we visited. (Two other fountains, too!).

A nun visits the chapel of the Holy Sepulchre in Fribourg Cathedral
The gothic Cathédrale St-Nicholas is noted for its tower which can be seen from many vantage points in the city, as well as its stained glass windows and a group of 15th-century life sized statues depicting the entombment of Christ.
Espace Jean-Tinguely-Niki de Saint-Phallo (modern art gallery) next to the Basilique de Notre-Dame
At the end of the Grand Rue, there is a steep descent to the lower town. Here we were often very close to the River Sarine, and the feeling was of a small provincial town with its covered bridge and grazing sheep - and more fountains, of course. From this perspective, we were often looking up towards the cathedral tower in the distance. The weather was ideal, as the photos below show.

Looking up at the Tour des Chats in the Old Town

The Pont de Berne over the Sarine
The view towards the cathedral quarter from the Lower Town
The granary building and another fountain.
Having walked all day, we climbed up and up and up to the highest perspective, the University campus, where we were rewarded with another view over the city.
Looking down toward the Cathedral
Tired, but happy, we trudged to the train station and headed home.

Lausanne is the larger and more important of the two cities we visited, but we enjoyed quieter, more rustic Fribourg more. Still, you cannot go wrong in this country.








Sunday, October 5, 2014

Fête, Fête, Fête, Fête

The weekend of September 26th to the 28th was a festive time in the Neuchâtel area. The famous Fête des Vendanges, which spanned all three days, is well known throughout Switzerland, but it was my least favourite of the four events I attended. I preferred the quieter, quainter Désalpe in Lignières, which lasted only a few hours. But more on that later.

La Fête des Vendanges ran from 18:00 Friday evening until about 23:00 on Sunday. Originating as a celebration of the fall wine harvest, it has been transformed over the years into a weekend for the usually reserved Swiss to break loose and party. The narrow streets of the old town are made even narrower with the erection of booths selling all sorts of food and a wide selection of libations. I have never seen so many people drinking openly in the streets! (And I was there only on the quieter days of Friday and Sunday.) To add to the festivities, local children - and many adults - throw confetti on passersby and into cars. By the end of the weekend, the streets are completely covered.
Three of us celebrate the Fête with some local rosé. Santé!

Jack, Tom, Jamie, Katie and Tori look to be having a good time.
On Friday evening, Bill and Dan led a group of staff members and their visitors into the fray. At one point, the streets were so packed that we were pushed and shoved into one direction or another as we attempted to get through the crowd. What should have taken a minute took us five! The crowds did not bother our students, however. Many of them found the dance tent where a DJ fuelled their energy, while some enjoyed the midway, and still others just walked around taking everything in.
Hayley, William and Reilly - in costume - enjoying the Fête.


Inside the dance tent. That's Bill on the right.
On Sunday, Bob, Dan and I returned to the Fête in the late afternoon. This allowed us to catch the tail end of the two hour parade, pick up some street food for dinner, and take some more pictures.

Confetti rains down on parade participants
Dan, Bob and I sample some "moût", grape juice on the way to being wine.
Sunday crowd
Samantha, Jesse, Isabelle and I at the Fête on Sunday

On Sunday, Tatyana, Lizzy and Erin arrive just as Bob and I are leaving the Fête
On Saturday, the entire school group and many alumni who were visiting the city for Homecoming, headed by bus to the small village of Lignières to view the Désalpe. In the fall, many alpine communities in Switzerland celebrate the descent of cows which spend much of the year grazing at high altitude. The dates vary from village to village, but we were fortunate that there was a fête so close to Neuchâtel on this day.
Solène and Sarah came dressed for the occasion.
These cows lead the parade.

Some 30 minutes away, Lignières is situated high up in the Jura mountains, and it seems that the entire community of 1000 was involved in putting on a parade for visitors. I loved this event! It was utterly charming and stereotypically Swiss.
Children throwing confetti

These folks played us a tune.
We saw cows adorned with flowers and laden with enormous cowbells; two quartets playing the Alpenhorn; men in the traditional Swiss farmer's shirts twirling lengthy ropes until they cracked like whips; another group of men spinning and tossing the Swiss flag; costumed men and women dancing in the street; floats with children throwing confetti our way; and older students parading in cheese costumes, or pulling wagons full of local produce.
This guy cracked the whip right in front of me!
Flag throwers
The parade passed by us twice, another delightful twist, so if we missed anything the first time, we had a second chance to view the procession. This was a true family event too, one to which the staff could bring their children. Lignières is our accountant, Sandra's, home town, so we were given a tour of her horse barn, and met her husband and parents; we also met Sarah's husband and two young children who came from Bern to see the Désalpe.
Sandra and her horse, Flora

Isobel, Jackie and Alix enjoyed the Désalpe
On the evening of that day, we were invited to another fête, Beth's birthday party. She and Aaron hosted Paul, his wife, Diana; Terry, his wife, Pam; and Bob and me. We had the best of both worlds that evening. We were able to enjoy the 45 minute fireworks display from their balcony - spectacular show - without having to wade through the crowds at La Fête des Vendanges. We also enjoyed each other's company; all of us are new to Neuchâtel and have been so busy with our work lives and adjusting to life in Switzerland that we have spent too little time together. The evening was made more special by the fact that Diana and Pam were in town for a short time, visiting for the fête weekend. Aaron had made cupcakes, to which he added some crème glacée. We sang "Happy Birthday" to Beth and felt like a family.
Party on Aaron and Beth's balcony. The birthday girl is in the foreground.
Fireworks!

My creative shot: Diana, a sparkler and fireworks.
We were not finished with big festivals yet! On Sunday morning, Dan picked up Bob and me and drove us to Le Landeron, 20 minutes away, for the biggest "brocante" in Switzerland. The entire small town was filled with vendors selling antiques, collectibles, crafts and junk.
Bob looking at art.
It took us about an hour and half to explore the bargains available; we both found things we liked at good prices. Bob picked up two attractive oil paintings - framed, while I purchased some silver earrings and a porcelain pill box. In spite of the crowds and the booths, the beauty of this town shone through. It helped that the day could not have been lovelier; in fact, the whole weekend was sunny and pleasant.

The Clock Tower in Le Landeron
Colourful Le Landeron
The weekend of Fêtes was extremely busy, since we were on the go most of the time, but it was great fun too. I had to go to work on Monday to rest!